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Old Greenwich

 ‘The Lewis Topographical Dictionary Of England’ in 1831 described Greenwich as a market town and parish in the hundred of Blackheath. The name derives from the Saxon ‘Greena-wic’ meaning ‘Green creek or bay.

The history of the present town began when the Danes set up their camps, on the sheltered land on the bend of the river, as headquarters for their raids on Canterbury in 1009 and London in 1016. It was from Canterbury that the Danes brought Archbishop Alphege in 1012 and murdered him, by tradition on the spot where the parish church dedicated to him now stands. This church has played a big part in our family history, being the place where many of the christenings, marriages and burials have taken place over nearly two hundred years. “The ancient church, dedicated to St. Alphege, having become dilapidated, the present structure was built by act of parliament passed in the reign of Queen Anne, for the erection of fifty churches within the city of London and its suburbs; it is a handsome edifice in the Grecian style of architecture, with a square tower, above which is a cupola supported on pillars of the Corinthian order, and surmounted by a small spire. The interior is ornamented with a painting on panels, representing a monumental effigy of Queen Elizabeth, a painting of Charles I at his devotions, and with portraits of Queen Anne and George I. Major General James Wolfe, who fell gloriously in the arms of victory at Quebec was buried in the old church of St.Alphege, in 1759.”

There were originally two ancient manors of Greenwich, but in the Doomsday Book, these were joined together, as the Manor of East Greenwich. Humphrey Duke of Gloucester, Regent during the minority of Henry VI, realized the strategic importance of Greenwich. It lies between the river Thames and the London to Dover road, which crossing Blackheath to the south of what is now Greenwich Park, was the other main artery for trade or invasion. Humphrey obtained the manorial rights and in 1428 decided to build himself a palace. It was of modest design, built of red brick. The banqueting hall, tiltyard and armoury of the Tudor period were added later. The original plan included a small castle on top of the hill, where the Royal Observatory now stands, which could be used as a watchtower overlooking the Dover road. After his death, the land was seized by Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI and renamed the Palace of “Pleasaunce” or Placentia. By the end of the fifteenth century, the Palace had become a major centre for the court.

“This was the birthplace of Henry VIII, who was baptized in the parish church, and during whose reign it was one of the principal scenes of that splendour and festivity which distinguished his court. Here his marriages with Catherine of Arragon, in 1510, and with Anne of Cleves, in 1540, were celebrated with great pomp. The princesses Mary and Elizabeth were born here, and Edward VI, kept the festival of Christmas 1502-3 in this palace, where he died in the month of July following. The assizes for the county were held here in the first, fourth, and fifth years of the reign of Elizabeth, and in 1577 the town sent two burgesses to parliament. Elizabeth made Greenwich her favourite summer residence, and Mary, daughter of James I, was baptized here with great solemnity, in 1605. Previously to the breaking out of the parliamentary war, Charles I occasionally resided here and, in 1642, the tower in the park, then called Greenwich castle, and which had been used sometimes as a place of residence for the younger branches of the royal family, frequently as a place of confinement, and occasionally as a castle, was thought to be of so much importance, that the parliament issued immediate orders to secure it for their use. After the Restoration, Greenwich again came into the possession of the crown, and the palace having become greatly decayed, Charles II ordered it to be taken down, and commenced the erection of a magnificent palace of freestone, one wing of which was completed at an expense of £36,000. Here that monarch occasionally resided, but no further progress was made in the work, either by himself, or his successor.”

 Following the accession of William and Mary the court moved to Hampton Court. Mary had become concerned about the plight of Royal Naval seamen following the victory at the Battle of La Hogue. They decided to start a charitable institution and The Royal Hospital of Greenwich was founded for the “relief and support” of seamen and their families. The charter was signed in 1694 and Sir Christopher Wren was engaged to design and oversee the building of the hospital. It was agreed that the remains of the old Tudor palace should be pulled down but Charles’ building, known as the King’s House, and the older Queen’s House, which had been designed by Inigo Jones in 1635, were to be incorporated in the new building. The hospital is situated on a terrace fronting the Thames, eight hundred and seventy-five feet in length, and terminated at each extremity by an alcove. In the centre is a landing-place from the river, from which the view of this sumptuous pile is strikingly beautiful and magnificent, extending through a lengthened perspective of elegant building enriched by the stately domes of the hall and chapel, from each of which is continued a noble colonnade of the Doric order, three hundred and forty-seven feet in length, and terminating with the palace of Henrietta Maria, consort of Charles II, now the naval asylum, above which is seen the royal observatory on an eminence in the park.

Near the waterside is an extensive iron wharf, where several smiths are employed in preparing a supply of such articles as may be wanted for immediate use. The town is pleasantly situated at the base, and on the western declivity, of the commencement of a range of heights, which forms the southern boundary of the vale of the Thames. The streets in the lower part, towards the river, are narrow and the houses mean and irregularly built; but in the higher situations, especially on the west side of the park, towards Blackheath, many respectable houses have been erected; a spacious and handsome street, leading directly from the church towards the hospital, and forming the principal thoroughfare to Woolwich, has been already formed, and further improvements are likely to result from the erection of a new market-house, which is at present in contemplation. The town is partially paved, lighted with gas, and supplied with water from the Kent water works at Deptford: a small theatre is opened occasionally during the winter, and a literary and scientific institution has been recently established. The park, comprising nearly two hundred acres, was walled round by James I, and planted and laid out in the reign of Charles II: the scenery is diversified with extensive lawns and stately avenues of fine old elms and chestnut trees; the views from many of the higher grounds are extensive and magnificent, especially from the observatory, and an abrupt eminence called One Tree Hill, embracing the hospital, the winding Thames crowded with shipping, a distant view of the metropolis, and a rich variety of splendid and interesting objects. The royal observatory was erected, in 1675, on the site, and partly with the materials, of the ancient tower, built by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester; it was completed under the superintendence of Mr. Flamsteed who was appointed Astronomer Royal.  Since the time of Flamsteed, from whom it obtained the appellation of Flamsteed House, the institution has continued to improve, and is at present replete with astronomical instruments of every description, including the original chronometer by Harrison.

 The market days are Wednesday and Saturday: fairs are held annually, commencing on the Mondays at Easter and Whitsuntide, which are numerously attended. The town is within the jurisdiction of the county magistrates, who hold a petty session every Tuesday, and of whom one or two are in daily attendance. A court of requests is held every Tuesday, under an act passed in the 47th of George III, for the recovery of debts under £ 5, the jurisdiction of which extends over the parishes of Greenwich, Deptford, Lewisham, Woolwich, Eltham, Chiselhurst, Charlton, Lea, Bromley, Beckenham, Bexley, Foot's Cray, St.Mary Cray, Orpington, Erith, and Plumstead, in the county of Kent; and the parishes of Croydon, Carshalton, Mitcham, Beddington, Morden, Sutton, and Cheam, in the county of Surrey.

The Grey-coat school was founded in 1643, by John Roan, Esq., for clothing and educating poor children; one hundred boys are clothed and instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and twenty supernumerary boys are instructed but not clothed: the management is vested in the vicar, churchwardens, and overseers of the parish. The Green-coat school was founded in 1672, by Sir William Boreman, for the maintenance, clothing, and instruction of twenty poor boys of the parish: the management is vested in the Master and Wardens of the Drapers' Company; a new school-house was erected in 1788. The Blue-coat charity school, for the maintenance, clothing, and education of girls, was established in 1770, there are twenty girls in the school. Queen Elizabeth's college was founded in 1576, by William Lainbarde, Esq., author of the "Perambulations of Kent," who endowed it for twenty aged persons, of whom, one each is to be appointed by the Master of the Rolls and the Master and Wardens of the Drapers' Company, in whom the management is jointly vested; the inmates receive a weekly allowance of money, and an annual supply of coal. Norfolk college was founded in 1613, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, by Henry, Earl of Northampton, for the support of a warden and twenty pensioners, of whom twelve are to be of this parish, and eight of the parish of Shottesham in the county of Norfolk; the management was vested by the founder in the Master and Wardens of the Mercers' Company: the building forms a neat quadrangle of brick at the east end of the town, near the river, and comprises a chapel, in which are a fine window of painted glass, and a handsome monument to the memory of the founder, removed with his remains from the chapel at Dover castle, where he was interred. Eight almshouses were built in 1809, by subscriptions amounting to £ 1153, and called the Jubilee almshouses, in commemoration of the fiftieth anniversary of the accession of George III to the throne: to these were added four more, by subscription among the Greenwich volunteer corps of infantry, in commemoration of the centenary anniversary of the accession of the house of Hanover.

Greenwich has been the place of debarkation of many illustrious visitors, and of several royal personages; among the latter may be noticed the Princess Augusta Saxe Gotha, afterwards married to Frederick, Prince of Wales, and mother of George III, and the Princess Caroline of Brunswick, late consort of George IV. The remains of Admiral Lord Nelson were landed here, after the memorable battle of Trafalgar, in 1806, and lay in state in the hall of the hospital for three days prior to their removal for interment in the Cathedral Church of St. Paul.

Greenwich in 1839

Pigot’s Directory of 1839 gives a description of:

 “GREENWICH AND NEIGHBOURHOOD

 In describing the public edifices, the Hospital that unrivalled monument of Christian benevolence and national gratitude and munificence, is pre-eminently entitled to precedence. It is a noble stone building, founded by William and Mary in 1694 - seated on the bank of the Thames, on an elevated terrace, about eight hundred and sixty-five feet in length towards the river; it consists of four distinct structures, distinguished by the names of King Charles’s, Queen Anne’s, King William’s and Queen Mary’s; the interval between the two most northern buildings (King Charles’s and Queen Anne’s) forms the grand square, which is upwards of two hundred and seventy feet in width. In one of these piles is a chapel which, for neatness, elegance and real beauty is not surpassed by any sanctuary in the kingdom; an eminent connoisseur (the Rev. James Dallaway) thus speaks of it: ‘ for truly classical design, in which no ornament is applied except from classical example, the chapel of Greenwich Hospital, as restored by the Athenean Stuart, has no rival in England - I had almost said in Italy’. The painted hall, governor’s hall the several offices, &c., have been similarly eulogised. From its position immediately opposite to and on the margin of the Thames, the prospect from the Hospital is of the most delightful character, commanding the expansive course of this far-famed river, with vessels in continual motion on its ample bosom, and embracing an extensive line of the coast of Essex. To do justice to this universally celebrated institution, in a work necessarily as limited as this is, would be impossible - indeed, it must be seen to be properly appreciated; and, as attempt at further description would be utterly futile, we must decline the task. To the south of the Hospital is the Naval Asylum, or school for the education, maintenance and clothing of children of seamen and marines: this is an extensive and truly liberal institution, and comprises every requisite office upon a scale uniformly grand - including large school-rooms, refectory, dormitory, an elegant chapel, infirmary, &c., encompassed by pleasant grounds, lawns and gardens. These are the charities of the greatest magnitude here; but, though more limited in their operation, there are others of a highly beneficial nature. The ‘seaman’s hospital’ is a floating ship (formerly the Dreadnought of 98 guns), and is for sick, lame and distressed seamen of all nations, supported by voluntary subscriptions. The charitable scholastic establishments are too numerous for minute detail; they comprise blue coat, green coat and grey coat, also national and parochial schools, some of them amply endowed; there are, likewise for poor persons, Queen Elizabeth’s and Norfolk colleges, and many alms-houses: of the latter, as well as the schools, several are supported by the wealthy and benevolent trading companies of London.

The chief support of Greenwich is derived from the number of gentry, and opulent London merchants and others, whom its vicinity to the capital and other attractions induce to reside here. Although dependent on no particular trade or manufacture, it possesses, however, some of consequence, embracing that of floor-cloth, belonging to Messrs. Cobbett and Jeeves; the ingenious fancy comb manufactory of Messrs Leonhardt and Co.; and tanneries, roperies, steam flour-mills, chymical works, &c. It receives a considerable addition to its general prosperity from the great resort of visitors, especially in the summer season, and to the fairs at Easter and Whitsuntide. Some idea may be formed of the great influx of visitors to the town, on Whit-Monday, 1839, when we state (from official returns) that 75,000 landed at and embarked from the pier, and that 35,000 were conveyed by the railway: what number arrived by the coaches, and many other appliances, it is impossible to state accurately; but it has been estimated that Greenwich was visited by upwards of two hundred thousand during the day and the night. It is stated the 5,000 paid to see the painted hall, in the Royal Hospital, on Monday, and nearly half that number on Sunday. Having mentioned the railroad, we may here further observe, that this superb ‘line of way’ was opened from London-bridge to Deptford on the 14^th December, 1836 - and through to Greenwich on the 24^th December 1838: the line is lighted with gas, and its appearance from the old Kent road, at night, is truly brilliant.

 There are two churches in the town, both handsome structures; the ancient parish church is that of St. Alphege - St Mary’s (a chapel of ease) was erected by the parliamentary commissioners: the benefice is a vicarage, in the archdeaconary and diocess of Rochester, and in the patronage of the crown: the present incumbent is the Rev. Alfred Somes. The Baptists, Independents, Wesleyan Methodists and Roman Catholics have their respective places of worship. The park, which is contiguous to the town, is a delightful spot, and fully justifies the celebrity its beauties have acquired for it; at that season of the year when nature displays all her loveliness, it is resorted to by almost every class of society. The Royal Observatory stands in the park, on a lofty site: here all astronomical observations are recorded, and from this point, all English geographers and navigators reckon the degree of longitude. The view from this eminence is grand and interesting, taking in the windings of the Thames, combined with a splendid and perfect perspective of the metropolis - the whole presenting as rich a picture as can be imagined. The present ranger of the park is the princess Sophia Matilda of Gloucester. Wednesday and Saturday are market days. In Easter and Whitsun weeks, the fairs or revels are kept up for three days, and with the attraction of the park and the season of the year, draw together, as before noticed, an immense concourse of holiday folk. The parish of Greenwich (including part of Blackheath) contained, by the returns of 1831, a population of 24,533 inhabitants.

POST OFFICE, 11 Nelson Street, John Watts, Post Master. -

Letters from LONDON arrive every morning at eight, noon at twelve, afternoon at half past three and evening at a quarter past six, and are despatched every morning at nine and afternoon at one and four. - Letters for Dover, &c. are despatched every evening (Sunday excepted) at half past six, and on Sunday at half past five.”

There then follows a long list of ‘Gentry and Clergy’ followed by about sixty ‘Academies and scientific establishments’ including an Emily Nugent (ladies boarding), - was this a relation of the Suzannah Nugent with whom twelve year old Caroline was boarding in 1851? There are then three pages of trades and professions with no less than 105 represented.

There were 2,710 pensioners in the Royal hospital with 105 nurses (widows of seamen)

“COACHES and OMNIBUSES. &c.

To LONDON every quarter of an hour through the day, from the corner of London Street and all the principal inns.

To LEWISHAM, BLACKHEATH, WOOLWICH &c. from the railway station upon the arrival of each train which is every twenty minutes through the day, and from the principal inns every quarter of an hour.

RAILWAY CONVEYANCE

STATION, BLUE STILE - Thomas Miller superintendent

To LONDON, Trains, every twenty minutes, from eight in the morning to ten at night.